Are you having canon scanner problems? Well you have come to the right place. In this tutorial I will explain. Installing the CanoScan LiDE 200 Using the Setup CD-ROM (Windows & Mac) Note: Do NOT connect the scanner to the computer before installing the software.

If your scanner gets jammed half way through then it could be that the casing 'spine' is bent There is a metal 'spine' that runs the length of the base inside the casing. When bent this pushes the scanner head up and into the glass causing the motor to 'lockup' and creating a horrible noise. If you open up the scanner and bend it flat again it solves the problem. You can tell if it needs this by turning the scanner upside-down and placing a straight object (metal ruler?) along the length of the scanner back. If you can see bowing (dipping or a curve down) towards the center of the back casing, the rail inside is probably bent.

Fixed my Canon LIDE 25 with the help of this manual. There are only 2 screws with our machine. First remove the 2 screws (covered by the stickers in the back - yes the round circles are stickers) Then turn over, carefully remove the plastic on both sides with a sharp knife (they are glued).

Afterwards the glass comes out by pushing in a bit and lifting out. Now place the middle rod in its grooves with a small pin midway that goes into a small hole.

(if the scanner head is in the beginning push it a bit) Then carefully place the two screws back. Run a test scan to see the head is OK. Then place the glass back by placing at the end first and when inside the end turn the scanner upside down and slide the glass to the end. Turn over pull the glass a bit to the front.

Return the two plastics on the side that were glued (the glue is sticky and still good). Hope this can help somebody. Getting the thing open was not too difficult. Do not be too afraid of breaking anything when prying off the sides. There's no clips, just two tabs on the back that pull out. It's primarily held in by glue. I did not bother using double-sided tape to put the sides back on because it would seriously muck up the glass and be a pain if I have to open it again.

Besides, they stay in place well enough on their own, even without the glue. Dealing with the actual bar was what took most of my time. Fracture Mechanics Rapidshare.

The bend may not necessarily be obvious, so you have to look very closely at it, and if you make a mistake, you can spend a lot of time undoing the damage. Also, there's no guarantee that the surface you have it on while examining it is actually level, so you might want to check that out too. Thanks for this tip because I doubt I would have figured it out on my own. What causes this?

Could it have been that some screws were put in too tight during manufacturing? It's worked for a long time until recently without issue. I just received my, new for me, unit (LiDE 110) from eBay yesterday and it was getting stuck intermittently when I tried it last night.

I used the edge of a ruler to determine whether the back casing was true or not: There was a slight bow to mine. I didn't want to go and open it just yet, so I Just tightened/loosened the three screws (in step 2 above) on the back outside to undo warp/bent using the ruler to determine the result. This worked for me. The next thing I was going to do if that didn't work was get longer screws to install a metal strip along it's length (temporarily or permanent) to straighten and reinforce the back. Again, thanks.